Rome, food

We’ve been in Rome for about five weeks.
About to take a quick two week jaunt to London. That amount of time is now what we now consider quick – and what we used to consider the maximum time possible away from home! Then we’re back to Italy to Toscana for about another month.

So enough time here to write about the Roman food scene.

It’s narrow!
I’d guess that 70% of all Roman restaurant menu items are the same. Five different pastas, a lamb dish, one or two beef dishes and maybe a fish offering. Often prepared the same way.
If you’re here for a few days or a week, then va bene – all good. But a month?
The saving graces are both the quality of the raw materials in the markets and the general care that the restaurants show in their preparations.

There are plenty of positive outliers and I detail some here, along with a retail wine store.

But a side note on coffee. It is the only country in the world where you have a very high probability of getting a terrific espresso. Everywhere. Hole-in-the-wall. It doesn’t matter.
You might think that NYC or Paris should have a similar positive hit rate – you’d be wrong. The West Coast starting at Santa Barbara and north might approach it.

First, though, if coming over here look at this site and buy her app. Super helpful.


Some of our picks…

Al Bric
In the Campo de’ Fiori neighborhood.
Eclectic. Careful kitchen. A restaurant in which to take your time. Terrific and broad wine list. And a good number of half bottles. On the expensive side. Sorry I don’t have clients anymore, especially regarding the wine.
Must-have: spaghetti with anchovies and pecorino.
Via del Pellegrino, 51

And there is a place right next to Al Bric, much more casual and still pretty great –
Cantina Lucifero.
And the perfect name for a restaurant for dinning on Easter Monday as we did.
Not sure if their site is working –

Perfect small cozy bar, just down the street from the above two restaurants:
Draft Book

Al Moro
Classic, old world Roman place, really too expensive for what it is, but I still like it. One block away from Trevi Fountain on a small side street. It feels clubby in both the good and bad sense.
Vicolo delle Bollette, 13

Another old world place and worth it.
In Testaccio.
Tratoria Perilli
Via Marmorata, 39

Il Bacocco
A good wine-related restaurant.
And the appetizer ‘finger food’ is daring for Rome. And some raw fish dishes also should be ordered.
Charming staff.
Via G. Mameli, 61

Really good and fun bar scene. Liquid calories suggested only.
Porto Fluviale
Via dell Porto Fluviale, 22

And an inventive Roman place. Will miracles never cease?
Grocery store/restaurant.
Via dei Giubbonari, 21

Also, the best wine shop we found in Rome. Fabulous. Underground cavernous place. Every Italian region represented.
And their enoteca is next door.
In the Prati neighborhood.
Enoteca Costantini


chez geller roma
fettuccine fatto a mano

fettuccine con fava

fettuccine con fava